How to Photograph Pets: Sharp Shots of a Moving Target

If you've ever tried to learn how to photograph pets, you know the problem: you get forty frames of a blurry tail and one sharp butt. Dogs and cats don't take direction, and they move the instant you're ready. After years of shooting dogs on the beaches around Santa Cruz, here's what actually gets you sharp, expressive pet photography without bribing the animal into a coma.

Get down to their level

The biggest upgrade costs nothing. Standing up and shooting down makes a dog look small and flat. Lie on your stomach or kneel so your lens is at nose height. The background drops away, the eyes become the focal point, and the animal looks heroic instead of like a footnote. Wear pants you don't mind getting sandy.

Freeze motion with the right shutter speed

Pets blur because shutter speed is too slow. Here are the numbers I work from:

• Resting or sitting pet: 1/250 second is plenty.
• Walking dog or a cat moving: 1/500 second.
• Running dog or a pounce: 1/1000 to 1/2000 second.
• Shaking off water: 1/2000 second, and you'll still lose some frames.

If you're on a camera, use shutter priority or manual mode with Auto ISO so you can lock the speed and let the camera juggle the rest. On a phone, shoot in bright light and use burst mode for action.

Lock focus on the eyes

A pet photo works when the eyes are sharp, even if the nose is soft. If your camera has animal eye-detect autofocus, switch it on. If it doesn't, use a single focus point and place it on the closest eye. Set continuous autofocus (AF-C) for anything that moves, and single-shot for a dog lying still. On a phone, tap the eye and hold to lock exposure and focus.

Open your aperture to around f/2.8 to f/4 for portraits to melt the background, but don't go wider if your pet's nose is far out in front of the eyes. At f/1.8 you may get sharp whiskers and a soft eye, which is the wrong trade.

Use light that flatters fur

Midday sun creates harsh shadows under the eyes and blows out white fur. Shoot in the first and last hour of daylight, or in open shade on bright days. Backlight is wonderful for fur: place the sun behind the animal and it glows around the edges. Expose for the face, and add a stop of exposure compensation if the face looks dark.

Get the attention without scaring them

Dull expressions come from a distracted pet. I keep a few tricks in my pocket:

1. Have a helper stand just behind you and hold a treat or squeaky toy above your lens. The eyes go straight to the camera.
2. Make one unusual noise only once, such as a kissy sound or a whistle. A repeated noise stops working in seconds.
3. Say the word "walk" or "dinner" for that ears-up, head-tilt look.
4. Let them get tired first. A dog after a ten-minute run poses far better than one bursting with energy.

Shoot in bursts and expect to delete

Even pros throw away most pet frames. Hold down burst mode as the dog runs toward you and keep shooting while it passes. Run backward if you have to, or ask the owner to call the dog from a set spot so you can pre-focus on that point. When you review your shots, keep only the ones where the eyes are sharp and the expression has something in it, whether that's a tongue flapping, ears flying, or a head tilt.

Match the setting to the personality

A goofy lab belongs on the sand mid-sprint at the water's edge. An old, calm cat looks best in window light on a quiet couch. Think about who this animal is, then shoot that. Some of my favorite pet portraits are the quiet ones: a gray muzzle in soft light, a face held close to an owner's shoulder. Those get framed and hung.

Be patient, and stay safe

Never force a pet into a pose, and don't use flash close to a nervous animal's face. Keep sessions short, with plenty of water and breaks. A relaxed pet gives you the real personality, and that's the picture the owner will treasure.

Pet photography is mostly patience and the right shutter speed. If you'd like to see how I handle light and subject on the coast, take a look at my gallery.